Adventure and Pride in Aruba

When it comes to dreamy beach vacations, the islands of the Caribbean Sea are an embarrassment of riches. From the Florida Keys to the Lesser Antilles you'll find teal-blue waters, white sand, rustling palm trees, and sun, glorious sun. And though each island has a unique history and character, most reputations lead with a consistent tourist-centric concept: Paradise.

So when I boarded a plane to Aruba, I left expecting a semi-predictable tropical holiday. That's not a bad thing! Beaches and piña coladas are two reliable ingredients in a perfectly relaxing vacation and I welcome them.

But once I arrived, Aruba served up some surprising Caribbean flavors. Top among them was a Creole culture that blends African, Dutch and Portuguese heritage, including a local language few people have even heard of: Papiamento. And that's just one element of the Dutch influence that prevails in Aruba. After all, it's one of three islands -- the others being Curaçao and Bonaire -- known as the Netherlands Antilles (or "the ABCs"), each of them so close to South America that on a clear day you can glimpse Venezuela.

Lay of the Land

Of the many appealing sides of Aruba, its manageable geography is key. The whole island is not much larger than Manhattan, which means that Queen Beatrix International Airport (named for the retired Dutch monarch) is close to everything. Centrally perched on the southern coast, the airport is literally 10 minutes from capital city Oranjestad, which by the way translates to "orange town," in honor of the Dutch House of Orange.

Oranjestad is a good walking city. It's also big on shopping. I was surprised to see quite so many luxury brands, Ralph Lauren and Louis Vuitton and the like, lining the main strips. Thankfully, a little further off the main drag known as Lloyd G. Smith Blvd., I could leave the big-ticket prices behind and discover locally made souvenirs and art. My favorite was Aruba Aloe, a skin- and hair-care manufacturer that uses one of Aruba's only indigenous crops, aloe vera.

Tastes of Culture

From Oranjestad it's an easy taxi or bus ride to West Oranjestad, which is considered the "resort high-rise area" for obvious reasons. But the heavy tourist traffic didn't deter my visit to J.E. Irausquin Blvd. and its side streets, where cute shops and restaurants for all budgets are worth a peek.

The Screaming Eagle near Eagle Beach, for instance, satisfied my seafood hankering in a swank setting. But the Bugaloe Beach Bar & Grill, offering the daily fresh catch and deck dining overlooking the sea, provided that laid-back island vibe I was looking for.

In central Oranjestad, my favorite was the West Deck a new casual beachside eatery from the family that founded Pinchos Grill & Bar. There's also the fun, gay-friendly Eet Café the Paddock, an easygoing spot to sit by the water and enjoy a burger and beer for around $15. (Speaking of money, Aruba uses U.S. dollars - a nice bonus for simplifying a vacation on foreign soil.)

Diving Into Adventure

Most of the tourist action in Aruba is centrally located in and around Oranjestad. But on both ends of the island are two preserves, Arashi Beach and Arikok National Park. The former is an easy visit; I rolled up and parked at the edge of the sand with my towel and sunscreen and perched under one of the thatched umbrellas. It's one of many southerly beaches with easy public access.

Arikok National Park, however, is more of an action-adventure scene. There you can join private ATV or dune-buggy tours across the park's rocky terrain (make advance reservations), and arrive at cool inlets like Conchi, the "natural pool" where you can swim in the swirling surf.

With this much coastline, water sports are everywhere, as are tour companies that want to make your scuba, fishing, windsurfing, and kitesurfing adventures safe and easy. For a great half-day snorkeling experience, try Aruba Bob Snorkeling, which will get you geared up complete with a hand-held "underwater scooter."

Island Pride

This being Dutch territory, gays and lesbians pretty much blend right in and have little need for a "gayborhood." There is, however, the anchor gay bar, Jimmy's Place, where you can meet local LGBT folks and their friends. Enjoy happy hours (5-7pm daily), and sip locally made Balashi beer on the huge back patio. The bar is open Tuesday through Saturday.

And though it keeps a low profile, there is an out-and-proud LGBT contingent called ALFA, the Alternative Lifestyle Federation Aruba. The organization has no official website, which is testament to just how low-key it is. But according to longtime member and Jimmy's Place owner Maekal Kelly, ALFA still meets regularly to work toward issues like legal marriage equality, which is glaringly absent in Aruba.

Apart from gay pride, the island of Aruba has a pride of its own. I found a great encapsulation of its local music, food, dance, and drink at the Carrubean Festival, held every Thursday evening in San Nicolas. Granted, this modest street fair and live show exists in large part to welcome tourists like me, but, like everything in Aruba, the locals join in the merriment that embodies their ubiquitous catchphrase: "One happy island."