Nov 8
Out with Dr. Bill – Paris Memories, Old and New
Dr. William Kapfer READ TIME: 11 MIN.
A Parisian Afternoon and Timeless Moments: Reliving Our Youth in Le Marais
After visiting the Eiffel Tower, we headed to a lively beer bar called Le Quetzal, tucked away in the vibrant Le Marais neighborhood at 23 Rue du Temple. I had checked the GayCities Guide beforehand to find the perfect spot for a quick beer before returning to our hotel–the Niepce Paris Hotel, Curio Collection by Hilton. GayCities is a fantastic resource, especially for LGBTQ+ travelers, with recommendations for friendly spots in over 280 cities worldwide.
Returning to Paris brought back memories of one of our first trips together, nearly 34 years ago. I'm reminded of a photo we took back then, with Eric pouring me a glass of Chianti. We were just kids with dark hair and the cheapest bottle on the menu, fully immersed in our own Parisian experience. We relived the nostalgia over lunch the next day near Notre Dame, once again sharing a bottle of red wine, as if we could capture that feeling of youth and exploration all over again.
Paris Nights: Fashion, Friends, and Fervor
Our last night in Paris was nothing short of magical, highlighted by reuniting with our dear friend, Marisa Berenson. Marisa had flown in from Morocco for Fashion Week to attend her late grandmother Elsa Schiaparelli's show. Ever the insider, she managed to secure us a reservation at the iconic LIPP, the legendary Saint-Germain-des-Prés brasserie that's been her go-to for four decades.
Known for its classic French cuisine and famous clientele of intellectuals, artists, and politicians, LIPP was the perfect setting for a quintessentially Parisian evening. In our cozy, intimate booth–one where the maître d' must pull the table out to help you squeeze in–we were instantly immersed in the vibrant, close-knit atmosphere that makes Paris unforgettable.
As we chatted, Marisa casually pointed to a younger-looking guy seated just a seat away from Eric. "I say younger," she teased, "since he's only 35." It turned out to be Gabriel Attal, France's former prime minister, who holds the title of youngest and first openly gay prime minister, serving from January to September 2024.
Across from him sat Michel Barnier, the current prime minister, and at 73, the oldest to ever hold the position in France's Fifth Republic. Only in Paris, right?
Marisa told us LIPP is famous for its political and celebrity sightings–a key part of its legendary status.
After reminiscing about our recent visit to her home in Marrakech, we decided to FaceTime her daughter, Starlite, to include her in our reunion. Despite the restaurant's lively atmosphere, we all took turns pressing the phone to our ears, laughing at the challenge but thrilled to share the moment together.
Marisa had an early start the next morning for the Schiaparelli show, so we hugged her goodnight and continued on to Soho House in the Marais district to enjoy our favorite Eastern Standard cocktail.
Fashion Week festivities were in full swing, with the main floor packed with young fashionistas–pencil-thin and barely old enough to drink–who added a contagious energy to the night. Every corner of Soho House buzzed with excitement, music, and that unmistakable ambiance only Paris during Fashion Week can deliver.
As the night wound down, Eric and I reflected on the rich layers of this trip: the adventure of getting here, the thrill of reconnecting with Paris's landmarks, the warmth of longtime friendships, and that unique Parisian magic that makes each memory feel extraordinary
From United Skies to New York Nights
We'd booked an early morning flight back to New York, perfectly timed so we could land, drop our bags at our Chelsea apartment, and still have plenty of time to make it to the annual Legacy for Equality Dinner with our fellow Lambda Legal Guardian Society members at The Smith Midtown on 2nd Avenue. With traffic on the East Side virtually gridlocked due to United Nations meetings, we anticipated the challenge of getting uptown and across town, so we gave ourselves extra time to take the subway.
Flying United Airlines from Paris to New York was as smooth and comfortable as ever. Starting the journey in the United Club lounge at Charles de Gaulle Airport added a special touch, making the trip feel enjoyable from the start. Pre-flight lounges are ideal places to unwind, catch up on work, or enjoy a quiet meal before boarding an eight-hour flight.
Once on board, United's transatlantic service didn't disappoint. Polaris makes the experience memorable, especially when Eric and I manage to sit next to each other–something that doesn't always happen.
From takeoff to landing, the entire inflight experience was a treat–especially the hot fudge sundae I savored for dessert. It was the perfect little luxury that made the journey feel special. With onboard Wi-Fi, we could easily catch up on emails and messages, staying connected even at 35,000 feet. After about eight hours in the air, we touched down at Newark, feeling refreshed and grateful to be home.
We managed to get back, shower, and change in time to meet with friends and celebrate at the Lambda Legal dinner, feeling incredibly fortunate to support such an important cause. It was all quite a whirlwind, but worth every exciting minute!